It was August, and our bags were packed, ready for a European summer getaway. We were heading to the island of Kefalonia, Greece.

Amongst miles of rugged coastline in the north of the island sits a small, colourful village nestled in a horseshoe-shaped peninsula. Endless views sweep out across the clear turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea.

Pine and cypress trees line the steep, winding road, which gradually leads you down to rows of pretty houses perched on the glistening water’s edge. There is something truly special about this place. In some ways, it feels as though time has stood still.

The village of Assos is secluded, peaceful, and surrounded by nature. Boxy buildings line the narrow streets, painted in every pastel shade imaginable—some with pops of emerald on the window shutters or cobalt blue, and others with a vivid ochre front door. As you walk around, lush foliage and bougainvillea cascade over narrow alleyways and spill from balconies high above. Inspiration is at every turn, particularly in the terracotta vases—I took so many photos of them! Each one sat proudly outside a home, filled with fragrant geraniums.

There are many abandoned buildings in the village, now taken over by trees and trailing foliage, exuding both beauty and sadness—a consequence of the 1953 earthquake that left much of Kefalonia in ruins.

At the heart of Assos, a small cove gives way to a pebbly beach, where the calm, clear waters lap the shore. Little blue and white fishing boats line the harbour, bobbing in the gentle waves. This is also the perfect spot to jump straight into the sea—so refreshing! Local tavernas sit alongside the peaceful, pebbled beach, dotted with parasols. Open-air tavernas and cafés offer the perfect setting to enjoy a delicious Greek meal or a drink while taking in the view.

Overlooking Assos is a Venetian fortress, set atop a steep hill. The climb to reach it is long and best attempted during the cooler hours, but the views from the top are breathtaking. The uphill walk winds through forests of olive trees before reaching the archway entrance. Here, you can take in panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes and the charming village below. You’ll also spot many of the resident goats, who often clamber to the top of the ruins in the castle grounds and peer down at you from above!

We stayed in two places during our visit to Assos. Our first apartment was perched on a hill, overlooking Assos Bay and the peninsula. The sunsets from up here were incredible.

Then we stayed at Linardos Apartments, which are part of a famous row of buildings featured on postcards sold all over the island. They’re lucky to have the most breathtaking sea views due to their unique positioning on the narrow stretch of land that joins the high, rocky hill of Assos Castle to the mainland. Technically, this land formation is called an isthmus, and the one at Assos is just 50 metres wide.

I would spend early mornings on the balcony, sitting in the dappled glow of the sun with a coffee in hand. I loved this time of day—the mist just beginning to clear from the tops of the hills. It was so peaceful before the excursion coaches rolled in, bringing with them the hustle and bustle of visitors.

From our room, we had the perfect spot for watching the locals. The fishing boats would head out early to stock the handful of restaurants. Come lunchtime, tiny figures zigzagged down the hill along the cobblestone streets, weaving behind foliage and disappearing momentarily behind walls before re-emerging via shortcuts—I made a mental note of these for our own exploration! It was light entertainment to keep track of them all as they made their way down to the water’s edge for an early morning swim across the bay. What a dream to have this place as your home!

We ended our trip with a stay at Moschato Villas in Svoronata, set amidst an olive grove. The villa boasted a private pool, a pergola, and beautiful interiors. The grounds were filled with fragrant rosemary and lavender shrubs, alive with butterflies and busy bees. There were even ancient olive trees over 600 years old!

Though there were many restaurants right on our doorstep, we often visited local farmers' markets to pick up ingredients for evening meals, which we cooked on the BBQ under the pergola—a blissful way to end a week of exploring.

Svoronata is the perfect location for visiting the capital, Argostoli, which is easily accessible via the local bus service. Once there, we walked along the De Bosset Bridge, which feels more like a footpath because it’s so low, almost at sea level, and lined with quaint, traditional lamp posts.

Afterward, we strolled along the waterside path, beautifully decorated with a pattern of cobblestones, admiring the boats and yachts moored along the shore. So many sea turtles popped their heads up to say hello as we made our way to a lovely spot by the north harbour for a swim. The sea was shallow, and lush trees provided welcome shade from the midday sun.

A visit to this beautiful island is highly recommended. There’s so much more we’d love to return to and explore! All in all, it was a lovely and relaxing trip—one that brought plenty of inspiration for new projects in the pipeline...!

Travel Stories: Kefalonia

Etsy